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Rangiroa (Deans, Nairsa, Vliegen)

atolls.jpg (15944 octets) rangiroa.jpg (32251 octets)
  • After  being discovered in 1616 by Le Maire and Schouten and visited in 1722 by Roggeven, it was only in 1851 that Rangiroa was occupied by the first Europeans, who were Catholic missionaries.

  • Rangiroa is situated 355km N-W of Tahiti, and is the largest of all the Tuamotu atolls, since its emergent land has an area of 7 900 hectares. Most of the island's 2000 inhabitants (based on the 1996 census) live in the villages of Avatoru and Tiputa.

  • The inauguration of a 2 100-m long aircraft runway in 1965 led to the development of the tourist industry on this atoll (it has a world-wide reputation as an underwater diving site) and to the construction of many hotels and boarding-houses

 

Géographie

Rangiroa, which is the largest atoll in both the Tuamotu islands and the whole of Polynesia and one of the largest in the Pacific Ocean, is the administrative centre of a commune. It is situated 355 km from Papeete. The other communes which belongs to the same administrative group are Mataiva, Tikehau and Makatea, which are situated 79 km, 15 km and 82 km from Rangiroa, respectively.

Rangiroa's 7 900 hectares of emergent land consist of 415 groups of islets. The turquoise lagoon in the centre of the atoll  is 80 km long, and ranges between 32 km  and 5 km  in width. The two largest islands after Rangiroa are Fakarava and Makemo. But in terms of the area of the emergent land, Anaa with its  3770 hectares ranks second after Rangiroa.

Rangiroa has two villages, Avatoru and Tiputa, and is the most regularly frequented of all the Tuamotu atolls. Its modern infrastructures are comparable to those of the smaller communes in Tahiti. The villages and their surroundings can be reached by a 6-m wide road made of tarmac and coral chips. Both of the villages were built on islands: Avatoru (12.5 km by 500 m) and Tiputa (4 km by 300 m).

There are two natural passages on the northern coast which give access to the lagoon to the motorised Tahitian “schooners” carrying goods and passengers from one island to another: the Hutuaara channel at the entry to the village of Avatoru and the Hiria channel at the entry to the village of Tiputa.

Rangiroa, where manta rayfish abound, is known all over the world for the magnificent underwater scenery which can be discovered by deep-sea divers in the island's two natural channels. An aerodrome with a 2100-m long runway equipped with approach lights is located on the "motu" of Avatoru. Speed-boats and bonito boats are the means of transport most commonly used to travel around both the inner and outer shores of the atoll.

 

Almost 300 years ago, a most unusual geological event occurred, which caused some gigantic limestone rocks to be ejected from the sea bed near Rangiroa and deposited on the coral reef. The largest of these boulders is 1000 m3 in size and weighs 1500 to 2 000 tonnes. These huge rocks are to be found at the north-eastern tip of this great atoll.

 

Histoire

 The island of Rangiroa, which was probably occupied by the first settlers around the 10th. Century A.D., used to have several villages: Tereia, Fenuaroa, Otepipi, Tevaro, Avatoru and Tiputa, near which several "marae" and dozens of disused taro root pits have been found.

 

The "marae", such as those at Anihia on Tivaru and at Tehone on Maherehonae, are small temples, the walls and "ahu" of which are made of upright blocks of coral.  Oral tradition has it that each of the "marae" corresponded to a set of islands or "motus" formerly belonging to social groups called 'ati. In the traditional texts sometimes recorded in "puta tupuna" (ancestral books), there is some mention of a terrible cataclysm, probably a tidal wave, which seems to have occurred around 1560, which wiped out all human establishments on  the western side of the atoll.

 

In the 17th. Century, Rangiroa formed strong connections with other Northern Tuamotu islands and the Society archipelago, via the intermediary of Makatea. The island's social, economic and religious activities were flourishing at the time, as can be seen from the remains of large "marae" and extensive villages near the natural passages connecting the lagoon to the sea.

Around 1770, this state of prosperity suddenly came to an end. 'The defeats inflicted by the dreaded parata warriors from Anaa led to the ravaged island being deserted, to the villages and collective edifices being destroyed and to the population being mostly massacred, while the cultivated lands were abandoned" 

(from L'Homme dans le Pacifique Sud by François Doumenge).

The survivors fled to Tikehau, Makatea and Tahiti, where they were protected by the Pomare people, and it was only in 1821 that they were able to return to their own island.

As mentionned before, it was not until 1851 that the first Europeans settled there: these were Catholic missionaries who encouraged the population to plant coconut palms back in 1865: this was how the island can be said to have entered the colonial era.

 

Rangiroa benefited from the period of economic and urban growth which occurred in Tahiti during the 1950's. The farmers on the island produced vast quantities of copra in those days. Nowadays, the copra production has been  tending to decrease both here and on all the Tuamotu atolls.

The fishermen on the island started long ago to pool their efforts to make use of the resources of the lagoon. They supplied fish to the employees of the "Compagnie Française des Phosphates de l'Océanie" (CFPO) who were working the Makatea phosphate deposit, and also exported 40 tonnes of fresh fish in 1960. The inauguration of the  2 100-m aircraft runway in 1965 led to the development of  tourist activities and deep-sea diving centres and to the construction of modern hotels and boarding houses.

The village of Tiputa is situated on the eastern side of the channel called the Tiputa or Hiha channel in the north of the atoll. Tiputa was chosen as the administrative centre of the commune of Rangiroa. At the time of the 1996 census, this village had 985 inhabitants.

 

The village of Avatoru is also situated in the northern part of the atoll of Rangiroa, on the southern shore of the island's most seaworthy channel. This channel, which ends up in the lagoon opposite the "motu" called Fara, is said (according to a legend) to have been excavated by twins: Moana Tea, the quiet sea and Moana Uh, the raging sea.

 

The 928 inhabitants (based on the 1996 census) earn their living by working in the hotel industry, and on the copra and pearl farms. They follow various religious confessions (the majority are Catholics and Sanitos), and have all built their places of worship to the east of the village. A road runs from Avatoru to the Tiputa channel, via the aerodrome and the hotel complexes.

 

From :

Ministère des Archipels (1998), Les Tuamotu Gambier : recueil de données essentielles, décembre 1998, Service de l'administration et du développement des archipels, PAPEETE.

Norman&Ngaire, Douglas (1994), Pacific Islands Yearbook, 17° édition, Fiji Times Ltd, 767p.

update : 07/10/08

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